Chemodan I: A mysterious suitcase’s tale of war, revolution, and love in the time of Stalin

This is the first in a three-part series. Check here for parts two and three.

I knelt packing my bag on the floor of the London townhouse of Andrew Fox, a British businessman and friend from when we both lived in the Russian Pacific seaport of Vladivostok. I had come here to interview him for a memoir piece on the 1990s and early 2000s in Russia’s “Wild East.” This was a turbulent era when mob-linked political bosses kidnapped journalists, a shipping industry whistleblower was blown to bits by TNT planted under her bed, and the governor threatened to jail Andrew, who also happens to be the honorary British consul general to the city.

I was double-checking my passport, wallet, and other essentials (My hearing aids! Oh, in my ears) when Andrew came thumping downstairs with a leather suitcase. As scuffed as old shoes, it was peeling open and dusted with dried mold that rubbed off like chalk on one’s clothes.

Unidentified photograph found in the suitcase, likely of George Walton, his wife Natalia (Tata), and his Russian mother.

“Before you go, did you want to take a look at this?” he said.

That’s right; he had mentioned something about a suitcase full of old British documents concerning Russia. I was heading to St Pancras to catch a train back to Belgium. Yet who could resist this strange object? “Suitcase” translates as chemodan in Russian, a word as ordinary as its English equivalent. But when applied to this curiosity, it seemed to describe a magical object that might pop up in an Isaac Bashevis Singer story.

“Sure,” I said. “We have time.”

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How El Salvador shed the title of world’s murder capital

The day Melissa Rivera turned 18, a friend of hers named Karen Guerrero sent the Salvadoran student a text wishing her happy birthday.

By 1 p.m. Guerrero, who was also 18, was missing, Rivera recalls. She was later discovered dead in a ditch, her limbs cut off. Her slain brother lay beside her.

“She was not involved in any drug or gang stuff,” says Rivera, who is studying at Universidad Francisco Gavidia. “She had a scholarship and was a very kind Christian girl.”

Such horrors were commonplace a few years ago in El Salvador, a nation riven for decades by civil war, death squads, and gang warfare. Now 21, Rivera remembers her mother walking her to school when she was a child. The older woman covered her daughter’s eyes when they passed the corpses of murder victims in the road.

Rivera serves Salvadoran coffee at a Santa Tecla café.

“When you grow up in a society that normalizes violence so much, you get used to it,” Rivera says. “It was very common to see every day a person that was found whose head was chopped off.”

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Confessing to Sister Sparkle at St. Origen’s

With the announcement that the Trump administration is banning the barbarous practice of transitioning children, I thought I would share another excerpt from my novel The Insurrectionist, out now from Freedom Letters press. Here, my journalist protagonist Ian Landquart, who has inadvertently ensnared his own daughter in an FBI probe of J6ers, attempts to repent at St. Origen’s Methodist Church in Chicago, where he meets the genderfluid Pastor Theo Wooster, AKA Sister Sparkle.

Above, X’s Grok tries valiantly to render Sister Sparkle based on my description below. Close, my digital friend, very close.

It had been years since he had prayed, not since his choirboy youth, before he rebelled against his parents’ religiosity. They’d been High Church Anglicans, all in for the smells and bells. He felt about under the pew ahead but found no kneeling rail. Should he cross himself?

He tried to remember the confession. We acknowledge and bewail our manifold sins and wickedness … provoking most justly Thy wrath and indignation.

Wrath and indignation.

“Ian, you shithead,” he murmured.

A hand with Crayola-blue nails rested gently on his shoulder, and he started. Looming over him was a busty, female-presenting individual in clown-white pancake makeup and a flamboyant outfit.

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Pardon the J6ers

For four years we have heard of the horrors—unique in American history, we’re told—of the January 6, 2021, “insurrection” and “attack on the Capitol.”

On the first anniversary, Veep Kamala Harris shuddered to recall “dates [that] echo throughout history … that occupy not only a place on our calendars, but a place in our collective memory: December 7, 1941, September 11, 2001, and January 6, 2021.”

During an address to a joint session of Congress, President Joe Biden cast his troubled gaze 160 years back in history, calling J6 “the worst attack on our democracy since the Civil War.”

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Writing lessons from dishwashing, 40 years on

Here’s why Moses wandered the Sinai Desert for four decades: When you reach your sixties, four decades is the blink of an eye.

“Come on, old man, when are we getting to the Promised Land?” the Israelites surely told the grizzled prophet. “It’s been forty years already.”

“You’re kidding. Seems like only yesterday we left Egypt.”

Such were my thoughts during a recent trip to Seattle when Nonna and I dropped by Julia’s in Wallingford. In the fall of 1984, I was an impoverished writer working as a dishwasher at the popular restaurant. Time flies, but that wasn’t the only conclusion I drew four decades on. Rather, the trip reminded me that in hard times you aren’t always aware of the greater plot of your life.

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A step in the right direction, but…

Washington Post owner Jeff Bezos fired off an op-ed on Monday explaining his decision to stop endorsing presidential candidates. The move is the right one, even if many of the newspaper’s staff are in open rebellion.

“Most people believe the media is biased,” he writes. “Anyone who doesn’t see this is paying scant attention to reality, and those who fight reality lose. Reality is an undefeated champion.”

Reports say the Amazon founder also intends to employ more conservatives, a welcome move, given that the legacy media’s idea of a conservative tends to be never-Trumpers like the Post’s Jennifer Rubin. She has flipped on some of her most heartfelt issues rather than share a position with the ex-president.

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Doubles in life and literature

I just had to post this photograph of that time I shared a good laugh with Judi Dench.

Heh-heh.

No, actually, it’s Brendan O’Hea, co-author with Dench of the fascinating book I just finished, Shakespeare: The Man Who Pays the Rent. But oddly, he looks rather like me, doesn’t he? Or like a long-lost cousin?

The photograph, from the back cover flap of the book, has me reflecting on the architype of the double in life and literature. Perhaps it is strangest when it occurs in the real world.

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Fans storm library for Working lecture

Nonna and I had a great time at my lecture last night in Chenoa, Illinois (pop. 1,695), despite the nuisance of fans from around world thronging the library to chant my name and throw their panties onstage.

In the first photo below, I am seated by Sean, the tech guy, who saved the day by getting my PowerPoint presentation up on the Roku TV. Library director Sheryl Siebert and her husband Reid generously served Nonna and me a dinner of shepherd’s pie and sweet rolls from a local Amish bakery beforehand. Unlike my bitter journalist character, Ian, in my novel The Insurrectionist, I love small-town America.

One of my hearing aids was in the shop, so attendees had to bellow their questions like drill instructors, but somehow we managed. Also, I am not terribly enamored of my title, but I had to slap up something so people wouldn’t think I would be lecturing on two-headed babies.

Meself and Sean, above. Reid and Sheryl, below.

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Viewing 9/11 from China

I was showering in the bathroom of our high-rise hotel in Urumqi, China—a Muslim-majority city in the restive Xinjiang region—when Nonna and my stepson, Sergei, banged on the door.

“Russ, come here, hurry!” they called.

Wrapped in a towel, I rushed out to see the TV showing what I mistook for a Chinese disaster movie of particularly bad taste. Grainy footage showed a plane flying into one of the twin towers of the World Trade Center. The skyscraper dissolved like a sugar cube in a glass of water. We couldn’t understand the narration. My first thought was, Who comes up with these outlandish plots?

The people we met were uniformly sympathetic, as I report below. Not all Chinese felt that way, however. Writer Liuyu Ivy Chen, later a Chinese immigrant to the U.S., wrote last year about her shame as she recalled the perspective on the catastrophe which she learned as an 11-year-old in central Zhejiang Province.

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Throngs stampede for reading

Hordes of Mongols, multitudes of Visigoths, entire Tribes of Israel, and jalopy-loads of Oakies are already thronging Route 66 on their way to Chenoa, Illinois, for a lecture and reading I will deliver on Sept. 24. If you and your chain-migrating clan happen to be in the neighborhood and wish to claw and pummel your way into the crowded venue, possibly losing an eye or an ear in the melee, please join us.

Fittingly, for a handbill promoting the much-anticipated event, the Chenoa library grabbed a photograph of me in front of a circus sideshow museum in the tourist trap of Uranus, further down the celebrated highway in Missouri. Why Route 66 is so famous, beyond a forgotten TV series by that name from the early sixties, is a question for pop historians. (Fascinatingly, Jack Kerouac once contemplated suing the series for misappropriating characters and themes from his On the Road.) However, you will find many fine oddities along the way, among them a store entirely devoted to Donald Trump paraphernalia, a 19-foot fiberglass statue of a smirking lout holding a hot dog, and an octagonally shaped library in a town Abraham Lincoln used to visit as a prairie lawyer riding the judicial circuit.

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